A winter fairy tale

A few kilometres after Saanen, the place names indicate that we’re now in French-speaking Switzerland: Rougemont and Flendruz are just two of the names of the places we travel past. A hot air balloon festival is ­currently taking place in Château-d’Oex. Balloons in all colours of the rainbow and even a larger-than-life Emmi cow float in the cloudless winter sky.  Even before we reach the doll’s house-like railway station building in Rossinière, a view of a majestic wooden house unfurls between the fir trees to our right – the Grand Chalet, the largest of its kind in Switzerland. For more than a quarter of a century, its history has been interwoven with that of Rossinière, a village with a population of around 500 people. We get out to visit the chapel of the painter Balthasar Klossowski de Rola. ‘Balthus’, as he was known worldwide, spent the last years of his creative life in the small village together with his wife, the Japanese artist Setsuko Klossowska de Rola. Documentary films that bring the artist’s work in Rossinière to life, including one by Wim Wenders, are shown in the chapel. And just a few steps away from the memorial is the chalet with the half-hipped roof, decorated with wood carvings and Bible verses. During Balthus’ lifetime, the European art scene came and went here; today, Setsuko and her daughter’s family live in the building’s forty rooms.

Back at the station, we board a train on the GoldenPass Express line that does not feature Belle Époque furnishings, but has large panoramic windows that round off towards the ceiling. It almost feels as if you are travelling in a convertible. In the late afternoon, we catch our first glimpse of Lake Geneva, which glistens golden in the light of the setting sun. The GoldenPass Express glides down gentle hairpin bends to Montreux. We reach the end of the line in the twilight. For the return journey to Gstaad, we simply stay on the train, which leaves the station in the opposite direction a few minutes later. Winter night has now fallen and the journey through the dark tunnels and forests exudes an air of adventure. Shortly before half past eight, we arrive in Gstaad, take a taxi to the Palace Hotel and sink happily into our starched pillows. A horse-drawn sleigh ride in the snow-covered valley of Lauenen is on the agenda for tomorrow, during which we will experience the winter wonderland again – this time it will be al fresco, snuggled up in sheepskins.

Gstaad Palace Hotel
Situated high up on a hill above Gstaad sits one of the last family-run five-star hotels in Europe. The Gstaad Palace is legendary. Opened in December 1913, it soon became the favourite hotel of the stars: Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, Grace Kelly, Roger Moore, Richard Gere, Princess Diana, Elton John, Rod Stewart and Madonna loved and still love the luxurious hotel, and Michael Jackson once even wanted to buy it. The list of illustrious and royal names who continue to return regularly goes on and on. Today, the elegant Gstaad Palace is managed by Andrea Scherz. He is part of the third generation of the family who founded the hotel.

Le Grand Bellevue Gstaad
Le Grand Bellevue is located in a small park in the centre of Gstaad, just a one-minute walk from the promenade. The hotel proves that simple elegance and Swiss authenticity are just as compatible as a relaxed atmosphere and maximum luxury. The owners, Davia and Daniel Koetser, have set themselves the goal of creating something unique with their hotel. The mission has been a success. Who else has an in-house tea sommelier and offers their guests the chance to enjoy meals sitting on hay bales in the park, take outdoor Qigong classes or watch their favourite film in the hotel's very own cinema? It even has its own yacht club and a spa offering every treatment conceivable. There are truly numerous reasons to spend as much time as possible at Le Grand Bellevue. However, should you wish to explore the beautiful surrounding countryside, Daniel Koetser will be happy to lend you his stylish Bentley S3, which once belonged to Sir Roger Moore.

Words Ilona Marks
Images Stephanie Fuessenich