Heart Beet
Hardly any tuber is hipper than beetroot. It has become the favourite vegetable of high-end gastronomy the world
over.
It has emancipated itself and left traditional forms of preparation firmly in the past. The beetroot is proof of how creative, complex and diverse a vegetable can be, and how it can be transformed into entirely unfamiliar textures and surprising and exciting flavour profiles. It is sometimes used as a cocoa-like powder, refreshing frozen pearls, or sweet and sour condiment. Strongly reduced, it unfolds a lot of umami as an intense vegan jus. Fermented, it can be a component of a sauce or a non-alcoholic drink. The trend toward vegetable charcuterie is equally exciting. Beetroot is fermented with koji, refined with spices and then slowly matured in the air, in a process similar to dried meat. The sweet, earthy-tasting beetroot with its fleshy texture can also be cooked in a very archaic way. Cooking it directly in the embers unveils wonderfully hearty, smoky aromas. It is particularly gentle and juicy when cooked in the oven, wrapped in a coat of salt. It tastes just as good raw or pickled. Acidity is perfect for balancing sweetness. Aceto Tradizionale, for example, gives it a mysterious elegance. The combination with blood oranges is almost congenial. In summer, it refreshes when sliced thinly as a carpaccio, with natural yoghurt and mint or as a colourful hummus with chickpeas and tahini. In winter, it is grandiose in soups or risotto. There are red, white and yellow beetroots. And last but very certainly not least, is the queen from the Veneto: the red and white curled Chioggia beetroot. It is so tender and finely aromatic that it is best eaten raw because its typical flamboyant rings, unfortunately, disappear when cooked. With such versatility, it is no wonder foodies are left with their hearts literally ‘beeting’ higher.
Words & Photo Claudio Del Principe
Related Stories
With a stunning rooftop terrace offering breathtaking views of the lake, an impressive wine list and an elegant, minimalist interior, the Izumi has everything for the international jet set.
Discover more
Chardonnay accounts for 31% of all grapes in Champagne and it grows particularly well on its chalky terroir. It is championed for elegant, fragrant wines bursting with floral, citrus and tasty mineral notes.
Discover more
There is no better guide for gourmets in southern Switzerland than Dany Stauffacher. We had the pleasure of accompanying the founder and CEO of the Sapori Ticino culinary festival on an enjoyable tour of his home region and not only pass on his enthusiasm for the restaurants presented here, but also a message that was very important to him: ‘When I’m asked for restaurant tips, I always have the same problem: I’m spoilt for choice. There’s so much on offer now in Ticino that for every restaurant I recommend, I have to leave out dozens of others that are just as deserving.’
Discover more
A journey of discovery through the world of Genevan wines is worth your while, as both the selection of grape varieties and the vintages pressed from these are wide-ranging and unrivalled. Within Switzerland, only the region of Valais has a line-up of grape varieties that is similar in size.
Discover more
At first glance, you could mistake one for a tomato, as they are of a similar size and round in shape. They are also bright orange to red in colouring and bear green stripes.
Discover more
Marco Campanella combines cucumber with passion fruit and in doing so makes the best ravioli in Switzerland. A profile of a culinary artist whose forthright and curious nature is reflected in every one of his dishes.
Discover more
Genevan wines are produced in a wine-growing area measuring more than 1,400 hectares, with only two other Swiss cantons having larger wine-growing areas. The West-Swiss vintages are always considered to be a hot tip outside of their home region. With a large range of grape varieties and a great deal of innovative spirit, Genevan wine growers know how to set themselves apart from their competition, as Peter Keller writes.
Discover more