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The selection of genevan wines

A journey of discovery through the world of Genevan wines is worth your while, as both the selection of grape varieties and the vintages pressed from these are wide-ranging and unrivalled. Within Switzerland, only the region of Valais has a line-up of grape varieties that is similar in size.

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Geneva boasts a wine-growing area measuring 1,400 hectares, with 56% of this land dedicated to the growing of red varieties. Gamay, Pinot noir and Gamaret are the most popular. Thanks to a hunger for innovation and a large measure of dynamism, the winemakers in Geneva diversified the varieties they grow a long time ago. It therefore comes as no surprise that speciality grapes such as Malbec, Syrah and the new Divico variety can be found in the vineyards on the French border.     The same also applies for white grapes and wines. Besides the ubiquitous Chasselas – which is one of the first wines that springs to mind when you think of Swiss wine – Genevan wine producers also grow Sauvignon blanc, Chenin blanc, Aligoté, Viognier and many other varieties. The centre of Geneva’s wine-growing sector can be found in Satigny, the largest wine-growing municipality in French-speaking Switzerland.

Genevan wine is considered to be worthy of discovery and as one of Switzerland’s best-kept secrets. This is mainly down to the fact that the locals enjoy most of the wine produced in the region themselves. As a result, the wines are unfortunately not afforded a great deal of prestige outside their home region. The benefit of this is that the prices of the wines remain moderate – except for a couple of outliers.

One of the star vintners in Geneva is Jean-Pierre Pellegrin. The winemaker renovated the 600-year-old Domaine Grand’Cour in Satigny as well as its cellar himself.

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The Surprising Drop

Evolution, Domaine de la Devinière – 2021

A typical and excellent Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, barrel-aged with a complex bouquet, notes of cassis and floral hints, moderate on the palate, mature, ever-present tannins, structured, great depth, a long finish, huge potential, pressed by the talented young vintner Camille Cretegny.

CHF 33 | la-deviniere.ch

The Exotic Drop

Chenin Blanc, Domaine de Beauvent – 2022

A Genevan speciality, very successful, a bouquet of yellow fruits, spicy honey notes, dry, medium-bodied, good acidity, a magnificent structure, a salty finish, matured in steel tanks.

CHF 16.50 | domainedebeauvent.com

The Aromatic Drop

Sauvignon blanc Barrique, Domaine les Hutins – 2022

A white wine typical of this variety from this first-class winery, aromatic in the nose, exotic fruits, roasted notes, dry, robust, good acidity, complex, elegant, a good length, a good white wine with a great deal of potential for storage. Barrel-aged, a wine listed in the Mémoire des Vins Suisses.

CHF 25 | domaineleshutins.ch

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The Elegant Drop

Pinot noir P, Domaine Grand’Cour, Jean-Pierre Pellegrin – 2020

A complex, first-class Pinot noir full of finesse with a multilayered bouquet of red berries, mint and spicy notes, fine tannins, good acidity, juicy, tight, a long finish and great potential.

CHF 57 | gerstl.ch

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The Simple Drop

Château Rouge, Château du Crest – 2022

An unusual cuvée of Garamet and Pinot noir, fruity in the nose and on the palate, full-bodied, soft tannins, elegant, well-balanced, complex, ready to drink now and could potentially be stored for four or five years.

CHF 15 | domaineducrest.ch

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The Spicy Drop

Iconique Syrah, Jean-Michel Novelle – 2019

A very successful Syrah with an intensive colour, notes of dark fruits, pepper and herbs, strong on the palate, compact, ripe tannins, a good structure with a delightful long finish, and can be kept for 15 to 20 years.

CHF 40 | novelle.wine

He also totally transformed the vineyard’s business strategy. His father had remained true to the tradition of supplying the cooperative with the grapes he grew, but Pellegrin wanted to move away from doing this. Today, he offers a wide range of first-class wines. On a plot of land measuring 25 hectares, the producer grows no fewer than 25 grape varieties. This is probably a record-breaking feat.

Jean-Michel Novelle is one of the avantgardists of the wine-growing region. At his Le Grand Clos estate in Satigny, there is a huge emphasis on biodiversity and all of his work is done by hand. On just seven hectares, some 38 wines are produced from 17 varieties of grape. His trademark is unusual cuvées and wines, such as a novel combination of the two white varieties Petit Marseng and Petite Arvine

In addition to the two flagship operations, there are many more wine producers making their mark and creating excellent wines, for example the Domaine du Paradis, the La Devinière estate and the Domaine Les Hutins, which is a member of the Mémoire des Vins Suisses with its Sauvignon Blanc. The winemakers association comprises more than 60 first-class estates from all six growing regions within Switzerland. The aim of the association is to promote the maturity and ageing potential of Swiss wines. A large proportion of Swiss wines are still being drunk too soon. The largest wine-producing operation in Geneva is the Cave de Genève. Some 30 vintners supply their grapes to the cooperative.

To demonstrate the diverse selection of wines produced in the French-speaking canton, we have chosen six stylistically different wines from six different grape varieties. It is almost a selection you could call ‘Geneva's Best’.

Words Peter Keller

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