Winter wonder
You don’t have to like this delicate yet rough leaf vegetable with its complex bitter notes – you have to love it! The late growing radicchio tardivo di Treviso is the prima donna of the noble radicchio family.
This beauty from Veneto is first stored away by means of a labour-intensive process and then planted outside in the winter. The plant’s bittersweet heart, so to speak, is then obtained from this second flush. With vigorous purple leaves that are reminiscent of tentacles, it’s impossible to keep your hands off this graceful rarity.
Tardivo unleashes its full flavour when fried or roasted. Simply remove the outer leaves and clean the stem with a sharp knife – but don’t cut it off, as otherwise the leaves will fall off. Give the whole radicchio a quick clean under the tap and drip-dry. Then cut through it lengthwise (big leaves can be quartered). Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle on a little olive oil. Roast both sides on the grill or in a frying pan until the edges turn brown and the leaves begin to shrink somewhat. Sprinkle with fior di sale. Prepared this way, tardivo goes well with creamy cheeses like Taleggio, Brie de Meaux or Gorgonzola.
However, it is also a treat for the taste buds raw, ideally combined with juicy blood oranges and red Kampot pepper. Pickled radicchio tardivo is another very popular delicacy. Boil equal quantities of water, white wine and white wine vinegar and add a little salt. Season with bay leaves, juniper berries and black peppercorns. Blanch the radicchio in the liquid for five minutes, then drain and squeeze out. Pack tightly in preserving jars, cover with olive oil and seal. Boil down in the preserving jars at 90 degrees for one hour. Then store in the fridge for at least two weeks.
Words & Photo Claudio Del Principe